Oaxaca, Oaxaca!
Two weeks spent backpacking through Mexico.
I started my trip flying from Los Angeles to Mexico City. When I arrived in Mexico, I stayed overnight in a pod hotel. They’re super convenient and cost effective, but they obviously lack most of the amenities you would find in a regular hotel or hostel. All I needed was a place to sleep that wasn’t an airport bench, and early the next morning I was on my way to Puerto Escondido. The Koffi Boys were already staying at a hostel within walking distance from the airport, called La Escondida. Definitely a step up from the simple design of the pod hotel, costing only 170 pesos (10 USD) for a night’s stay. Like most hostels, the sleeping situation is a bunkhouse-style shared dorm, (we opted for no air conditioning). In the mornings the hostel provides a small breakfast, and guests have access to two kitchens for cooking their own meals. Hostels are great if you’re up for socializing, plus you can experience the cooking and cultures of all those just passing through. Overall the vibe was very relaxed. There are other spaces besides the kitchens to hang around with fellow hostel-stayers, like the terrace and bar area. Venturing out of the hostel, downtown Puerto Escondido is less congested with fancy restaurants and bars, and more home-y in a way that feels “authentic”. La Punta and Zicatela are trendier and popular with transient visitors, and likely for a good reason, but to me they also seemed more commoditized. I generally prefer to travel a bit more immersively, but if a hip atmosphere appeals to you, check it out.
Highlights in Puerto -
Vegetarian eats at Cocofam
This little restaurant is family-run, located right in the backyard. The food was incredible, the drinks were delicious. The menu is limited, but it’s absolutely worth checking out if you have a restricted diet (or even if you don’t)
Jugo across from the hostel
The juice spot nearby was only open until early afternoon each day and was always packed. My buddies and I would grab a drink in the morning (about 32 ounces) before we got on with our day. I recommend the “Surf Juice”.
Playa Coral
This is a “secret” beach, meaning you have to climb under a fence and hike down a trail to access it, or at least that’s how we got there. When you get down to the water, you’ll find it’s a cool and secluded spot without many people, right in front of an abandoned water park. Because it’s a bit isolated, there aren’t any options for food along the beach, so bring a picnic and watch the sunset. Just be out before it gets too dark, as the pathway down is not lit.
Playa Carazillo
If you’re not up for making your way down an unpaved trail to get to a beach, this is a more popular and easily accessible spot. If you’re into surfing, there’s usually some decent ankle busters for beginners (the locals can be a bit territorial with their spots, so don’t expect to catch the best ever waves). Snorkeling near the shore was pretty sweet– I even saw a few sea turtles. Playa Carazillo has the bluest waters, and is definitely a good place to spend a day. You can even rent a chair with some shade for a few bucks, and grab some grub too.
The Road to San Jose del Pacifico
After 4 days on the beaches of Puerto Escondido, we started heading towards the more mountainous San Jose del Pacifico. The town is about halfway between Puerto and Oaxaca City, tucked away in the Sierra Madre del Sur. It’s often called “magical”, both because of its beauty and because of the wild psychedelic mushrooms that grow there. These ‘shrooms are essentially decriminalized, and are sold basically everywhere, commonly preserved in honey.
In Puerto, we left La Escondida to catch a local bus to Pochutla, about an hour and a half’s ride. The price was ~20 pesos each. ( 1 USD ) A very easy trip. The next leg of the journey was a slightly different story. From Pochutla, we bought tickets for a colectivo bus for about 150 pesos. This vehicle was absolutely nuts. The odometer read 9999999, the dash was lit up like a Christmas tree, and our driver did a quick sign of the cross as we departed. The ride up is a would-be nightmare for anyone who might be even a little hungover; the road twists and turns and winds around the mountains with very little space between the edge of the pavement and the edge of the cliff. Mads and I were practically sitting in the driver’s lap– we kept joking that I could have grabbed the wheel and steered us off the mountain if I had wanted to. Despite sitting in the front and NOT being hungover, we still experienced a bit of carsickness. All in all, we nearly crashed only a handful of times in this uphill battle, and made it to our destination in a little over 4 stomach-churning hours. No shade directed at the bus driver; this man was truly a hero with nerves of absolute steel, steering us to victory. On arriving in San Jose del Pacifico, we walked about a half mile to our “hostel”, La Cumbre. I put “hostel” in heavy quotes, because for 150 pesos each we were treated to a private room with two queen sized beds and a desk.
We spent two days relaxing in this mountain haven, venturing into town to eat at a local restaurant. Most meals were in the range of 35-60 pesos (about 2-3 USD). Being so high in the mountains, the evenings can get cold, and we each had 2-3 hot chocolates in the evening to keep us warm and wind us down. San Jose del Pacifico is mellow, and the best way to enjoy the town is by wandering through the streets and enjoying the views. You can also opt to trip on shrooms, if that’s your style. Relax and enjoy yourself. Two nights reading on the terrace of La Cumbre sipping chocolate, overlooking the restaurant near the hostel was good. We had some joyful conversations with other travellers around a firepit, which for 50 pesos could be lit and maintained by the restaurant staff. When it was time to move on to Oaxaca City, we bought colectivo tickets through the same company as we did on the way up. We weren’t elbow to elbow with the driver this time, but the 4-hour trip down the mountain was not nearly as harrowing.
Just as a side note, a two hour hike from San Jose is San Mateo, which we heard is an even smaller, hippier town. We attempted to hike there, but got twisted around and ended up turning back. If you end up making it there, let me know how it is. The folks we met from the area told us it’s an off-the-beaten path, off-the-grid, psychedelic experience.
Oaxaca City
We arrived in the afternoon and walked leisurely from the bus stop to Hostal Chocolate. The woman at the front desk told us the only beds available were in the basement, 110 pesos a night. We checked them out, and she was definitely right to give us a heads up. We decided that it wouldn’t be the most questionable thing we’d done in Mexico though, and agreed to stay. After a night, we met up with the rest of our party of 7 and checked into an Airbnb, which we stayed in for 5 days and was much more pleasant. I spent my time in Oaxaca City wandering the market places, beautiful churches, museums , and art spaces that this city has to offer. The grass roots scene for press print style artwork is huge here, and any of the studios will be happy to explain the process to you in spanglish. We took a free 3 hour walking tour and that helped us kind of get a lay of the land, pointing out some local hot spots. I am always a fan of taking the walking tour just to see what you can get out of it, usually some local spots and at the end you feel like you have a grasp on the town.
Things to see -
Ethnobotanical Garden and Santo Domingo Cultural Museum.
These two are located directly next to each other and are some of the most iconic landmarks in the city. It takes about 2 hours to see the museum in its entirety, but don’t rush it. It’s chock full of history, including the discovery of Tomb 7 at Monte Alban. Plan ahead so you can experience the cultural museum before the White Mountain and understand the history of everything you’ll see. The Ethnobotanical Garden is full of native plant life that is endemic to the region, meaning many of the plants are not found anywhere else on Earth. They offer a guided tour for 50 pesos in Spanish, or 100 pesos in English. If you’re looking to take some pics for Instagram, this is a good place.
Monte Alban
A round trip bus trip to the heritage site will cost 80 pesos, and can be purchased on the west side of the Zocalo. Meet the bus driver in the morning and they’ll drop you off at 9 AM. Pick-up is at noon, so you have 3 hours to take it all in. The entry fee to the mountain is another 80 pesos, but I almost recommend spending some additional money on a tour guide. There is so much to see, and having someone to guide you through the rich history may have enriched our experience. Even without, it was a humbling and beautiful place, and amazing to see the architecture of the Zapoteca still standing after centuries.
Mercado 20 de Noviembre
It doesn’t actually have to be the 20th of November to visit this market; it’s named for the date of the Mexican Revolution. The market itself is a celebration of Mexican culture and cuisine, a deluge of smells and sights. It’s full of knick-knacks but the focus is really on the sizzling meat all around you. Everything you could ever want to eat all packed into the one market (as long as you like carne asada).
Bolenc
Sourdough bakery and restaurant-y deli-y place with awesome sandwiches and pizza.
Hierba Dulce
Vegetarian and vegan restaurant serving traditional Oaxacan dishes with a twist
Calle Porfirio Diaz
This bustling street is lined with hip restaurants and shops.
Zocalo
The city center square, full of shops and restaurants.
La Cosecha
An organic harvest market filled with rich history, fresh juice, and many shops.
Mexico, and more specifically the state of Oaxaca is a rich blast of culture waiting to be taken in. An assortment of indigenous culture paired with an array of bright primary colors everywhere you look make it hard not to have a smile on your face at all times. I reflected on my trip when I returned to my fast paced life in Los Angeles and quickly missed those cobblestone streets, siestas, and easy afternoons spent in Oaxaca. The emphasis on a happy life and much time spent with family and friends is infectiones, and I wish more people prioritized these things back here in the land of the 9-5. I look forward to returning to Oaxaca someday, and exploring the rest of what Mexico has to offer.
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